Day 6 Pantalica Gorge, Palazzo & Siricusa
Inside the Church
The artwork portrayed above the altar is of Saint Sebastian, born in 256 A.D. and died in 288 A.D. A Roman officer in the guard of Diocletian and also a Christian, he secretly brought items of comfort to those Christians imprisoned by Diocletian.
The painting above depicts St. Sebastian tied to a tree, shot and riddled with many arrows by order of Diocletian when his Christianity was revealed. Left to die, he was rescued by a woman, St. Irene, who nursed him back to health. His strength regained, he openly chastised Diocletian for his persecution of Christians. For this Diocletian had him clubbed to death. I guess Diocletian wanted to make sure he was dead, really dead this time! However, he lived on in his sainthood. I bet THAT really irked Diocletian.
Because he was in superb physical condition and able to defy death during his first execution, he was considered patron saint of both athletes and soldiers.Inherent Faith
Man, from the beginning of time, has always worshiped and demonstrated faith to explain his existence, whether it was the sun, moon or stars, physical elements of the earth such as rain, wind or fire, maybe a tangible, ideological object, or a form of ones preferred Deity. As we travel along the path near the caves, we see rustic shrines carved into the limestone to accommodate prayer and reflection.
Amazingly Intact
Vestiges of pottery, jewelry and objects of weaponry were found during an organized excavation by Paolo Orsi from 1895-1910. The objects are on display at the Archaeological Museum of Syracuse. The Necropoli and Pantalica Gorge are a United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization, UNESCO, World Heritage Site.
The Beautiful Town of Ortygia
Tonight we stay in Ortygia, the historical center of Syracuse and a small island which is connected to Syracuse by bridges. Take note of the building most prominent in the photograph. This is the palazzo of Sicilian Baron Pietro Beneventano del Bosco, whose home we visited this evening.
Hmmm....Reading Between the Lines
The Baron has asked permission to remove his coat. I have to admit, it is a warm night and there is no air conditioning in the palace. Without his coat, however, the Baron appears a bit disheveled. Now I begin to notice his unshaven appearance. His clothes are rumpled and he doesn't seem to care much about his personal appearance. Is he truly a baron? He certainly knows his history and can recite a litany of ancestors and their life's achievements. Entertaining he is, but...what about the now? He doesn't speak much about the present. Questions abound in my mind, but questions I deem improper to ask such as, "How much does it cost to keep up a place like this?" "What is your source of income?" "Who will inherit the estate?" "Who does your laundry?" "Do you have children?" "Are you married?" "Do you stay here alone?" "Is this your permanent home?"
The Baron initially appears grand to me, but as the evening goes on, I see a lonely old man, desperately attempting to hold on to his heritage.Stepping Back in Time
Can't you just imagine the ladies swirling around in their ball gowns, escorted by their "whose who" husbands back in the day. Everyone all gussied up, dinner invitation in hand from none other than the Baron himself...probably a grandfather or great grandfather of our host here tonight!
More Treasures
During the course of the evening, some of my questions were answered. The Baron has dedicated his life to preserving the antiquities and history of Syracuse. The palazzo, having been host to numerous dignitaries of the world throughout the centuries, is seen by our Baron as a receptacle for photographs, documentation, and other historical treasures passed on to him for safe-keeping. He spends hours cataloguing by hand these artifacts in his private study. Hundreds of thick, leather bound journals reside in an alcove above his desk. He was generous to show them to us, but he let no one tarry behind the group for an extra photo opp. He kept a close watch about him.
To preserve the palace and the family title, he speaks at engagements around the world, hosts dinners such as ours tonight and larger ones for the leading experts of world art and culture, is actively involved in the historic family vineyard started in the 1700s, is Chancellor to the Bank of Italy and also founded the Rotary Club of Ortigia.View from the Palazzo's Balcony
The Baron is married, but his wife isn't fond of the palace.....I'm thinking she travels a great deal. He admits the palace sometimes feels like an empty tomb, so he travels as well whenever he can. He is raising his nephew, now in college, for his deceased brother. I suppose his nephew will one day be heir to all that the Baron Beneventano leaves behind.
After finishing the tour, he leaves us to our dinner downstairs. He doesn't dine with us, but we have a delightful buffet waiting in the stone cellar.
Later, after we have finished our dinner and are leaving, we see him outside the gates of his palace. He has been taking his nightly walk about town. When we greet him again, he speaks energetically, like we are old friends, and asks us to stop by and ring the bell if we are ever back in Syracuse again.Burial of St. Lucy by Caravagiio, 1608.
Screen shot from Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Michelangelo_Caravaggio_010.jpg