Day 6 Pantalica Gorge, Palazzo & Siricusa
Packing the Van
It was obvious our guides LOVED their job leading us through their country and showing us the magic of Sicily, but I KNOW they must have dreaded packing the vans. I wonder if it's just us Americans who take too much??
One More Packing Adventure Accomplished
Lisa does it again! She was our packing extraordinaire.
Patiently Waiting
I grabbed this picture of Jake waiting to jump in the van.
And Here Comes the Rest of Our Crew
We are well-trained now and come when called. Haha!
Sebastiano's Expressive History Lesson
Our first stop was in Melilli near Syracuse to visit the beautiful churches in this quaint town.
Chiesa di San Sebastiano
This beautiful church, named for Saint Sebastian, was built in 1481 and destroyed in 1693 by an earthquake which killed 60,000 people living in the area. The cathedral was rebuilt and finished in 1768.
Seba explaining the story of St. Sebastian, his namesake.
Always with the hands....no mistaking his Italian identity.
Inside the Church
The artwork portrayed above the altar is of Saint Sebastian, born in 256 A.D. and died in 288 A.D. A Roman officer in the guard of Diocletian and also a Christian, he secretly brought items of comfort to those Christians imprisoned by Diocletian.
The painting above depicts St. Sebastian tied to a tree, shot and riddled with many arrows by order of Diocletian when his Christianity was revealed. Left to die, he was rescued by a woman, St. Irene, who nursed him back to health. His strength regained, he openly chastised Diocletian for his persecution of Christians. For this Diocletian had him clubbed to death. I guess Diocletian wanted to make sure he was dead, really dead this time! However, he lived on in his sainthood. I bet THAT really irked Diocletian.
Because he was in superb physical condition and able to defy death during his first execution, he was considered patron saint of both athletes and soldiers.
Ceiling of Chiesa di San Sebastiano
Every inch of these cathedrals is decorated from ceiling to floor with exquisite paintings, gold, marble and granite.
Wide Angle View of the Altar
A larger perspective of the nave and altar within this lovely church.
A Sicilian Discussion
Politics, religion, directions? Who knows?? Love the hand gestures though.
Fresh Pastry!
We Always have time to stop for pastry and coffee. :-) Our guides know what's Really important!
So Cute
This little girl entertained herself for quite a while with her pink balloon while her mother talked to a friend outside a store. I found her captivating.
Savvy Travelers
A charming couple, Deb and Ray travel together quite often. How many trips did you say you you guys have taken with Wilderness Travel?? Seems like around 12-15. They take the prize for most experienced trekkers for sure!
Pantalica Gorge
A description of what we will see today.
HHMMM......Looks like a Long Way Down
The terrain reminds me of rocky Colorado with the humidity of Florida.
Ancient Necropolis
Layers of tombs, an estimated 5000, are carved into the limestone of the gorge, resembling the honeycomb of bees. Every square you see was a burial site for 1 - 7 people with tombs reopened and used multiple times.
Vintage Sidewalk
A stone path leads the way past limestone caves where people lived back in the day, the day being 1250-650 B.C.
Home Sweet Home??
A limestone cave home to certain Byzantine people 13th - 8th Century B.C. The Pantalica was an area of flourishing population of about 1000 people who lived here during the Bronze Age.
Inherent Faith
Man, from the beginning of time, has always worshiped and demonstrated faith to explain his existence, whether it was the sun, moon or stars, physical elements of the earth such as rain, wind or fire, maybe a tangible, ideological object, or a form of ones preferred Deity. As we travel along the path near the caves, we see rustic shrines carved into the limestone to accommodate prayer and reflection.
Amazingly Intact
Vestiges of pottery, jewelry and objects of weaponry were found during an organized excavation by Paolo Orsi from 1895-1910. The objects are on display at the Archaeological Museum of Syracuse. The Necropoli and Pantalica Gorge are a United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization, UNESCO, World Heritage Site.
Trying It On For Size
Ted finds this one a little too small for comfort. The ancient people were smaller in stature and lived to be about 30 years of age.
Smile Please :)
With our tour of the Necropoli finished, Steve and Karen accommodate my request for a photo opp. I think Steve would rather be in the Chow line...haha! :-)
A Pretty Path
Turning around to see the distance we covered, I think this was one of the prettiest hikes we have had so far.
Ready for Lunch
We have all just arrived at the top of the hillside, hot and hungry for our picnic lunch. I snapped this photo of Joe before he even had a chance to take off his daypack. Joe keeps us entertained with stories of his grandchildren who FaceTime him from CA during the trip.
Oh Yeah!
They take good care of us....what a feast they are preparing!
Always With a Smile
Every guide brings their personal flair to the group, and Lisa, with her organizational skills and boundless energy, kept us moving! Fluent in Italian and originally from CA, Lisa is an expat who now lives in San Gimignano, Italy with her family.
Note the Bottles of Wine
Even on a picnic, out in the middle of nowhere, there are priorities!
Back on the Trail
Hiking across a beautiful stream after lunch. Now it feels more like a rainforest deep in the canyon. Sicily is an island with many faces.
Pristine and Clear
A popular swimming hole, Ted, Jake and Scott cool off in the beautifully transparent water.
The Beautiful Town of Ortygia
Tonight we stay in Ortygia, the historical center of Syracuse and a small island which is connected to Syracuse by bridges. Take note of the building most prominent in the photograph. This is the palazzo of Sicilian Baron Pietro Beneventano del Bosco, whose home we visited this evening.
Grand Entrance Hall
Steps leading up to the main floor of the palazzo. Quite impressive! All we knew was that we were invited for dinner at the royal Baron's home. Kind of intriguing and mysterious, right?
Jim With the Baron.
The palazzo is huge with lovely antiques, photos and paintings. Originally built in the 14th Century, it was remodeled in the Sicilian baroque style in the late 1700s. The Baron tells us this home has been in his family since the 15th Century.
Storytime
The Baron was charming and full of stories. When it came to the history of Sicily, he was a walking Wikipedia.
The Great Dining Hall
I cannot imagine the resources required to maintain such fine treasures.
Hmmm....Reading Between the Lines
The Baron has asked permission to remove his coat. I have to admit, it is a warm night and there is no air conditioning in the palace. Without his coat, however, the Baron appears a bit disheveled. Now I begin to notice his unshaven appearance. His clothes are rumpled and he doesn't seem to care much about his personal appearance. Is he truly a baron? He certainly knows his history and can recite a litany of ancestors and their life's achievements. Entertaining he is, but...what about the now? He doesn't speak much about the present. Questions abound in my mind, but questions I deem improper to ask such as, "How much does it cost to keep up a place like this?" "What is your source of income?" "Who will inherit the estate?" "Who does your laundry?" "Do you have children?" "Are you married?" "Do you stay here alone?" "Is this your permanent home?"
The Baron initially appears grand to me, but as the evening goes on, I see a lonely old man, desperately attempting to hold on to his heritage.
Stepping Back in Time
Can't you just imagine the ladies swirling around in their ball gowns, escorted by their "whose who" husbands back in the day. Everyone all gussied up, dinner invitation in hand from none other than the Baron himself...probably a grandfather or great grandfather of our host here tonight!
Boys' Club
This picture doesn't do justice to the purpose of this room...there was no way to possibly photograph the remnant of every 4 legged creature on display. There were beasts of which I'd never heard. Quite a collection the Beneventano family has acquired over the years.
More Treasures
During the course of the evening, some of my questions were answered. The Baron has dedicated his life to preserving the antiquities and history of Syracuse. The palazzo, having been host to numerous dignitaries of the world throughout the centuries, is seen by our Baron as a receptacle for photographs, documentation, and other historical treasures passed on to him for safe-keeping. He spends hours cataloguing by hand these artifacts in his private study. Hundreds of thick, leather bound journals reside in an alcove above his desk. He was generous to show them to us, but he let no one tarry behind the group for an extra photo opp. He kept a close watch about him.
To preserve the palace and the family title, he speaks at engagements around the world, hosts dinners such as ours tonight and larger ones for the leading experts of world art and culture, is actively involved in the historic family vineyard started in the 1700s, is Chancellor to the Bank of Italy and also founded the Rotary Club of Ortigia.
View from the Palazzo's Balcony
The Baron is married, but his wife isn't fond of the palace.....I'm thinking she travels a great deal. He admits the palace sometimes feels like an empty tomb, so he travels as well whenever he can. He is raising his nephew, now in college, for his deceased brother. I suppose his nephew will one day be heir to all that the Baron Beneventano leaves behind.
After finishing the tour, he leaves us to our dinner downstairs. He doesn't dine with us, but we have a delightful buffet waiting in the stone cellar.
Later, after we have finished our dinner and are leaving, we see him outside the gates of his palace. He has been taking his nightly walk about town. When we greet him again, he speaks energetically, like we are old friends, and asks us to stop by and ring the bell if we are ever back in Syracuse again.
Street Music
Musicians and artists abound in every square in all of Italy...especially in the evening.
Church with Green Doors
Here we saw an original Caravaggio painting, "Burial of St. Lucy".
I'm not a great fan of art, but to see something like this in person....it induced some "awe" even in me!
Burial of St. Lucy by Caravagiio, 1608.
Screen shot from Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Michelangelo_Caravaggio_010.jpg
Mickey Mouse!
He's here in Ortigia Coopie!
(I had to take this for Cooper, my grandson.)